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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.